4. HANIA - HORA SFAKION (see map )

As you leave Hania behind you and head for Rethimno, the first thirty-two kilometres of your journey, up to the intersection leading to Vrisses, are on a beautiful wide road - here called the National Road - that will invite you to speed. If you go too fast, though, you will miss the chance to see many interesting sights along your way.

The National Road stretches for two hundred kilometres along the coast of Crete. It connects Hania and Agios Nikolaos and it is practically the only highway on the island allowing you to ride at full speed. Many foreign bikers, after spending an exhausting few days on the winding country roads of the island and tiring of the appalling low speeds, take this road from end to end just to get it out of their systems.

The people of Hania know the road like the back of their hand. From time to time they stage Dragster races on it, proving that they are indeed very fast drivers. Their fellow cyclists from Rethimno, Iraklio and Sitia also enjoy driving here, and the latter often entertain themselves by making all other vehicles look... motionless in comparison to their superbikes. If you and your motorcycle want to let off steam because of the dreadfully slow rides in the Hania countryside, you might feel the irresistible urge to imitate them and drive as fast as possible until the road will allow you to go no further. Do not hesitate to satisfy your desire. Pop down to Rethimno or Iraklio and return to Hania feeling relieved. And now you can calmly start Route number 4!

About twelve kilometres east of Hania, you will reach an intersection with a road leading to the south (Gr/E sign to Megala Chorafia and Aptera). Turn right on this road (A3) and follow it up the mountain, then turn left at Megala Chorafia. You will shortly arrive at the Aptera archaeological site, situated just east of Metochi.

If you want to enjoy the best view of the Souda Bay (to the north) and the valley of Kiliari with its many olive groves (to the south), continue on the road which leads to the northeastern part of the hill and stops just outside the Itzentin Fort.

ITZENTIN FORT
After the Ottoman Turks put an end to the Cretan revolt of 1866, the Turkish commander Reouf Pasha, believing that the

Turkish rule would last a long time, decided to reinforce the defence of Hania where the administration was based. He made up his mind to build the fort in 1867 and gave it the name of his son, Itzentin.

It is one of the best preserved Turkish forts, not only because it is the most recently built, but also because it served as a Greek prison until 1971. Although on the outside the architecture has remained intact, the inside has been changed radically and often reinforced with cement in order to serve as a prison. Today it stands abandoned and unguarded, and it is full of rubbish nobody seems to care about.

Once you have explored the area leave ancient Aptera behind you, return to Megala Chorafia, and turn south (toward Stilos). You will cross a rural area full of olive trees and streams which join to form the Kiliari river. Settlements have existed in this fertile land since the Minoan period. In fact, one such settlement was recently brought to light when a hill was excavated in the area near Stilos, just after the crossroads leading to Malaxa. You will certainly find that the road you have taken - the old National Road which connects Hania and Rethimno - does not have much traffic, since everybody seems to prefer the new road. After a quiet ride, you will arrive at Vrisses.

From Vrisses you can go just about any place (including Sphakia), as you will soon discover. The village has some Rooms to Let and a small hotel, and on the main street there are lots of coffee shops, restaurants and super markets, so this is a good chance to replenish your supplies. In the super markets you will also find fresh fruit, refrigerated and delicious.

Source of the information on this page : “Unexplored Crete”, Road Editions. For more guidebooks and maps of Greece, click here.