13. RETHYMNON - IERAPETRA (Following the south coast) (see Map 1 - Map 2 - Map 3 )

Rethymnon to Agia Galini

Between Rethimno and Spili (30 km) there is a nice open stretch of road with good asphalt (A2) that will certainly invite you to speed. About 9 km south of Rethimno, though, slow down a bit and look for the big Gr/E sign that says “Minoan Cemetery of Armeni.” Turn right following the sign, park your motorcycle next to the guard’s hut, take along a torch and a camera with a flash, and prepare yourself for a sight worth seeing: the most impressive Minoan cemetery of Crete.

As you continue southward on the main road you can drive fast, because unlike so many other roads this one has been carefully designed. After 15 - 30 minutes (depending on how fast you go!) you will arrive at Spili. What you see from the main road does not do justice to this large, yet picturesque village. If you want to see it as it really is, follow the OTE sign and get off the main road,. take a walk through the cobbled streets of the upper neighbourhood. (These go uphill and are lined with aristocratic, stone-built houses that are fortunately still lived in). On the main street you will see a small square with seventeen lion-head fountains that make an impressive sight. If your walk has tired you and your stomach starts complaining, your best option is Mr. Tzourbakis’ restaurant at the north exit of the village. Right above it are some rooms for rent, air-conditioned and carefully looked after.

Between Spili and Agia Galini the road is also good (A2), with nice turns, good asphalt and clear views during the entire route. It goes through two bald mountains with grey rock, Kedros in the north (1780m) and Siderotas in the south (1660m). Behind Kedros lies the Amari valley surrounded by beautiful mountain villages,

but obviously you’re not interested or you would have chosen Route 14! If, however, you change your mind, your last chance to switch routes is to turn on the road (A3) that starts a little before the north entrance of Spili. (There is a Gr/E sign at the intersection that says “Gerakari”). Once in Gerakari, turn to page 323 for the rest.

If you haven’t turned to page 323 it means you are a beach lover! Sure enough, behind Siderotas you will find the largest, cleanest, emptiest, nicest beaches in all of Crete (Road Book 5, page 280). The coastline between Agia Irini (the beach south of Kerames) and cape Melissa (at Agios Pavlos) is a true paradise. After Agios Pavlos, you can find good beaches - small, for the most part, but sandy and quiet - behind the Asteroussia mountain range, and more specifically on the coastline between Kali Limenes and Maridaki (the beach near Tsoutsouros). After that, there are still some clean beaches, but the landscape has been spoilt by the huge, plastic-covered greenhouses of the farmers’ villages that are in the area. To reach all these beaches you need an off-road bike, since you will be frequently driving on quite difficult dirtroads (gravel, steep inclination etc).

For the first beaches (the ones behind Siderotas) you need to get off the main road at Kambos Kissou. When you get there, turn right (in the direction of Aktounda) and follow the road as it climbs the north side of the mountain, goes through Vatos, Adraktos, Drimiskos and Kerames (all of which are rather indifferent villages without much character), and takes you to the picturesque - but almost completely deserted - Agalianos. Even before Kerames you have a view of the coast below with its truly wonderful beaches. After Agalianos you need to continue on a dirtroad (D3). Road Book 5 marks the basic route to help you distinguish the road you must take among the maze of dirtroads that end in the olive groves. However, what will really help you is a good sense of orientation, coupled with persistence and luck, and the knowledge that you should never lose sight of the

Yet the most impressive beach of Crete, a real masterpiece of Nature, is the beach of Agios Pavlos further to the east. This is not accessible from Agia Paraskevi, since the coastal road connecting Agia Paraskevi and Agios Pavlos has been abandoned and is no longer serviceable. It can be reached if you get back on the Rethimno - Agia Galini road at Kambos Kissou, continue southward until Nea Kria Vrissi, and then turn right. The sand at Agios Pavlos is very rich. The beach is separated into three coves divided by large rocks, and of these the west and middle one are totally empty of buildings (and can be reached with a five to ten minute walk from the top of the hill where you will leave your bike). At the east cove you will see two or three Rooms to Let, which are quite nice and have balconies with gorgeous views. Their taverns are also nice, serving good meals at low prices. Your best choice is the tavern and Rooms to Let of Aris and Carol. Since there is no phone available, the only way to book a room is by mail, so write early at the following address: Carol and Aris, Taverna “To Koutali,” Poste Restante Agia Galini, Crete.

Whatever your maps show, there is no coastal road between Agios Pavlos and Agia Galini. The two dirtroads that seem to lead to Agia Galini, one starting south of Sachtouria and another intersecting the Sachtouria - Agios Pavlos road and heading east, are in fact misleading, and they end in olive groves and steep cliffs above the shore. To continue Route 13 and head east again, you must first go back to Nea Kria Vrissi. From there you can either go down the main road to Agia Galini or take the road that takes you there through Melambes. The latter is very slippery, though, so it is best to avoid it.

Source of the information on this page : “Unexplored Crete”, Road Editions. For more guidebooks and maps of Greece, click here.